Note: The text below is the transcript of the YouTube video above.
By the end of this video, you’ll know exactly why artists like Chagall and Matisse never wanted to leave this village.I’ll show you every single art spot – from the perfume shop where Matisse designed a bottle to the hotel filled with Picasso’s paintings. Trust me, you won’t believe what happened to me in this tiny village.
Hi I’m Satomi — a Japanese artist based in London. Three weeks ago, I quit my full-time job and set off for the south of France. Now I film how places and moments reshape creativity, and I share what I learn along the way.
I had this pin on my Google Maps with just one note: “Saint-Paul-de-Vence – art town.” That’s all I knew. Then, this ad pops up on my laptop: “Former Impressionist painter’s house.” And I was just like…”Oh wow, this is perfect for me!”
I didn’t even think twice. I booked it immediately. Because here’s the thing—Impressionist painting is why I started painting in the first place. I had to feel that famous southern French light myself.
So I get a taxi from Nice, with no idea what the village is really like. And when I get there, it’s like stepping back in time. I’m just standing there with all my stuff, looking at this gorgeous little house covered in climbing flowers and thinking to myself, “I can already tell this is going to be a special time.”
Inside, up these impossibly steep stairs, is this little studio room. And in the corner—an easel. I kept thinking, “This must be the easel the artist used.” The artist was Paul Brusset, a mid-20th-century French painter.
The next morning—oh my word. I wake up and the window is glowing; sunrise light is pouring through, pure gold—the kind you see in paintings and think, This can’t be real. I push the window open and see olive groves, vineyards rolling down the hillside and, in the distance, a glimpse of the Mediterranean.
I nearly cried. I’m not even joking.
You see, Saint-Paul-de-Vence isn’t just some pretty village that happened to attract a few artists. Since the 19th century, it’s been this magnetic place for creativity. Marc Chagall lived here for nineteen years and is buried in the local cemetery. Picasso was a frequent visitor. Artists like Raoul Dufy and Paul Signac painted and stayed here during the 1920s and 30s. There’s something about this place that just… it calls to artists.
That light inspired me to start my own art pilgrimage. That first morning, I was wandering the maze-like streets, following the smell of fresh bread from a bakery. And walking with my pastry, I just thought, “I’m literally walking where Picasso walked.”
You feel that history is everywhere. At the village entrance, you’ll find La Colombe d’Or — an iconic, family-run hotel-restaurant where artists like Picasso and Matisse once paid for their meals with paintings that still hang on the walls today. I actually booked a table there, but after a weird service experience, I ended up leaving. I was a bit sad, but honestly, I’d still recommend it to any art lover.
On another morning, I took a short trip to nearby Vence to see this chapel that Matisse designed. The Chapelle du Rosaire. He spent four years on it – every single detail. The architecture, the stained glass, the murals, even the priests’ vestments. He was 81 when he finished it, called it his masterpiece, and died just three years later.
When I walked into that chapel… I honestly couldn’t move. The light coming through those stained glass windows was just… I can’t even describe it. I was so moved that I actually went back again the same day. I couldn’t take photos then, but I think you can now.
And while I was in Vence, I also discovered this beautiful mosaic by Marc Chagall in one of the churches there. With the light coming through the windows and illuminating the mosaic it created this dreamlike atmosphere. Chagall really knew how to create these magical spaces.
On my way back from Vence, I pop into this little antique shop — just following curiosity. A beautiful table catches my eye, so I ask the shop assistant, “Could you tell me about this?”
She smiles and says, “That belonged to Paul Brusset.”
“Wait—what? I’m actually staying in his old house this week!”
We both burst out laughing at the coincidence. Turns out the shop’s closed now, which makes that moment feel even more special.
And the magic kept happening. In the village, I walked into this perfume shop called Godet, and the staff told me that in 1925, Matisse himself asked the perfumer there to create a scent for his muse. How cool is that?
Next day, I visited the Maeght Foundation, this incredible art museum just outside the village. It was France’s first private art foundation, created in 1964 by these art dealers who were personal friends with the artists. There’s a courtyard packed with Giacometti sculptures, Miró’s ceramic works… It’s a must-visit place if you like 20th-century modern art. I spent some peaceful time at their café, surrounded by all that beautiful greenery, just reflecting on everything I was experiencing.
And very close to the Maeght Foundation, there’s this place called Foundation CAB. The foundation was first established in Brussels in 2012. It’s a contemporary art space, but it’s also accommodation. The incredible thing about it is they have this Jean Prouvé Demountable House – it’s like stepping into design history. Originally designed as a prefab home, but now it’s this quiet retreat where you can actually stay. They also run residency programs for artists too.
One day the weather changed. It started pouring— properly dramatic, moody rain —and after a while it stopped. The air felt fresh, and the village looked different. I walked through the streets, there was hardly anyone around, and the usual buzz had faded to a gentle hush, almost like everyone was drifting through a dream.
Back in my room, filled with that strange, peaceful energy, I sat down in the chair to catch the ideas before they slipped away. I opened my sketchbook and drew. When the page was full, I looked at the easel in the corner and thought, This is it – my moment.
I set up my canvas where I imagine Paul Brusset once painted. For the first time in ages, I wasn’t thinking about London, deadlines, or noise. I was simply present, listening to what I actually wanted from my art, from my life.
On another day, I set out to explore the village galleries. Saint-Paul-de-Vence is dotted with brilliant independent galleries: Galerie Catherine Issert, Galerie Podgorny, and Bogena Galerie, which is run by a relative of an old London colleague. I was so surprised when I found that out! Some spaces are run by gallerists, others by the artists themselves, and I spent hours chatting with them all, connecting with the local scene.
I befriended an American painter in the village named Gui Lessin. One day he said, “Satomi, I’ve got something I want to show you.” He led me to this empty storefront. “You could turn this into a studio and sell your paintings right here.”
The next morning, I rang the estate agent. It just kept ringing. I tried again — nothing. And I thought maybe it was a sign… but honestly, if they had answered, I might have moved there.
Looking back now, that week feels almost dreamlike. I enjoyed every single moment I spent in Saint-Paul-de-Vence. Every morning when I woke up, seeing that beautiful sunlight streaming in – the magical view felt almost unreal. I was just so grateful that I was able to be there for a week.
Some places don’t just inspire you – they change you. They show you possibilities you never knew existed. That’s what Saint-Paul-de-Vence did for me. It reminded me how vital it is to take time with myself, to really pay attention to what sparks something in me. Experiencing this place with its unique light, colours and atmosphere – so different from what I experienced in Japan or London- it fed something deep inside me I didn’t even know I was searching for.
After this incredible week in Saint-Paul-de-Vence, I headed to Cannes for a whole month, which turned out to be equally inspiring in completely different ways.
By the way, I’ve put together a complete illustrated guide with all the amazing art spots from my two months in the South of France. It includes details and backstories that I couldn’t fit into videos, and it’s designed to be enjoyed as much for reading as for reference. Perfect if you’re an art lover interested in the South of France. Your support helps me continue this creative journey, and I’m so grateful for it. Download it from the link below.
I can’t wait to share other stories with you in my upcoming videos, so don’t forget to subscribe to follow this journey.
You’ll also find my website, Instagram, and newsletter in the description below — that’s where I share more of my work and ongoing projects.
And I’d love to hear from you — has a place ever shifted your perspective? Let me know in the comments below; I always love reading them.
Thanks so much for watching, and see you in the next video.